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Key Terms:
stays petticoat Gigot sleeve pelerine mantelet pantaloons tunic |
Brief
overview of the time period: In France, after the fall of Napoleon, Louis XVIII became king. A brief revival in earlier clothing styles and an interest in costume balls emerged. But his revival of absolute monarchy led to a revolution in 1830. As a sign of the rebellion, the revolutionaries adopted a differing style of dress from the mainstream. The rebellion led to an unsteady political system, which again led to another revolution in 1848. By 1852, the Second Empire was established and was ruled by Emperor Napoleon III (nephew of Napoleon Bonaparte). 
 Louis XVIII of France Napoleon III of France In England, political scandals surrounding King George IV made him unpopular with the people. In 1830, William IV succeeded his brother to the throne and when he died without an heir in 1837, his 18-year-old niece, Victoria, became Queen. With her corronation began the Victorian period.  Young Queen Victoria of
England
In the United States, Westward expansion was almost complete. By 1840, over half the population of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama were slaves. The cultivation of cotton dominated the American economy and by 1850, Eli Whitney had developed the cotton gin. In America, by 1825, there were machines made for printing borders on fabrics and by 1827, new techniques for fabric coloration improved. The availability of colors such as yellow, orange, brown, and a variety of blues emerged throughout the United States. |
 Romantic period stays, petticoat, and sleeve supporters (c. 1830s ) The Metropolitan Museum of Art  Romantic Day Dress with demi-gigot sleeves (c. 1830) Kent State Museum  Fischu style Pelerine over Gigot sleeve day dress (c.1830 ) Memorial Hall Museum  1830s Mantelet Fashion plate |
Effects
on Women's Clothing: From 1820-1825, there was a transition between the Empire style and the new Romantic style. By 1825, the distinctively high waistline of the Empire period had dropped downward to just a few inches above the anatomical waistline. More and more emphasis on the smaller waist and fuller skirts, the need for stays, or corsets, and petticoats became a necessity. Multiple layers of petticoats were worn to support the widening skirts and a small bustle pad was worn in the back (left). Large gigot sleeves along with wider and shorter skirts began to emerge as the silhouette for the Romantic Period. As printed material became more readily available, fashion magazines identified gowns as they were to be worn by occasion. Terms like Morning dress, Carriage dress, and Ball Dress began to distinguish women's fashion more and more and the need for more articles of clothing to suit the occasion followed.  1831 English fashion
plate detailing different gowns per occasion,
The Royal Lady's Magazine
The basic Romantic day dress was not trained. Many bodices had V-shaped necklines and were worn with variety of chemisettes and large white collars, or pelerines, became a popular accessory. When venturing out of doors, the mantle, or mantelet, was the most popular article of clothing. Wide-brimmed bonnets with high crowns were worn also. Dresses for evening wear were of the same silhouette as the day dress, but necklines were lowered and off-the-shoulder, the chemisette was abandoned, and sleeves and skirts shortened. Finer fabrics such as silk or gauze was used for evening gowns accompanied by a more luxurious mantle or mantelets than worn for day wear. Hair ornaments and ribbons adorned elaborate hairstyles in the evening. No matter what the occasion dictated, knitted stockings and slipper-type shoes were prominent, and black was the most popular color for evening wear. By 1837, the Romantic silhouette became a bit less flamboyant as hemlines lengthened and sleeves became narrower. The waistline returned to it natural position and slightly rounded bodices became prominent.  The transition of the Romantic gown from the 1830s silhouette (back) to the 1837 silhouette (front) The Museum of Costume |
| Effects
on Children's Clothing: Like the periods prior, both boys and girls up to the ages four or five were dressed in muslin gowns with pantaloons. The only difference between the sexes was the lack of lace and ornamentation on the boy's gowns. By 1830, girls' dresses, after the age of six, were composed of full skirts and very tight, fitted bodices with large gigot sleeves. Girls' attire mimicked that of their mothers', except that the girls' pantaloons were still visible below their skirts. Five to six layers of petticoats and tight corseting literally "molded" young girls into little adults. Boys between the ages four and ten wore knee-length, or hip-length, tunics which were belted at the waist. Underneath their tunics, Ankle-length trousers allowed for freedom of motion and comfort. Dressy occassions called for the addition of a white collar and bow-tie added to the ensemble. |