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Key
terms:
Directoire chemise a la reine Empire style Redingote Regency Era Spencer jacket Pantalets Trousers |
Brief
Historical overview of the time
period: In France, due to civil unrest, a revolution broke out in 1789. Louis XVI immediately summoned to order the Estates General and together they passed a decree to abolish feudalism and drafted the first written constitution in French history. For 10 years, the new Directoire governed- but quite ineffectively, and the opportunity was right for Napoleon to stage a coup in 1799. By 1804, Napoleon crowned himself Emperor and waged wars all over Europe. In England, the loss of the American colonies in 1776 still waned in the minds of the English people, yet the import of American cotton soared. War with France dominated their resources and energies for most of this period, but in 1815, England finally defeated Napoleon at Waterloo. War with France was over. |
 Caricature by Charles Williams (1807) illustrating the "old style" vs. the "new style"  Marie Antoinette by Lebrun (1783)  Muslin evening gown with cashmere shawl (c. 1800) The Victoria and Albert Museum |
Effects
on Women's Clothing: During the Regency Era, France ruled the women's fashion world. During the first revolutionary period, women's fashions began to change drastically. Extravagant corsets and panniers were cast aside as thin, almost transparent Grecian- like gowns were adopted. It was the idea of simplicity rather than decadence that changed the way female form was treated. Garments began to drape the female body rather than reshape it. In 1783, Marie Antoinette was the first to wear this new style and is seen in her "chemise a la reine" as is seen in the portrait by Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun (left). This style quickly began to sweep across the country and by 1802, all of fashionable Europe was wearing what is now referred to as the Empire style. But by 1804, the French silk industry had seriously declined and Napoleon tried to recover the nation's main economic industry by passing a decree that all court dress for both men and women be made of French silk. Flamboyant colors and decoration epitomized French fashion. In England, "chemise a la reine" continued to be fashionable. Sheer cotton fabrics such as muslin, gauze, and percale were the most popular gown materials. White was the most favoured gown color and ornamentation was frowned upon. To quote a contemporary English source, "...a diversity of colours bespeaks vulgarity of taste..." and "...we totally disapprove, at all time, of the much ornamented stocking. ...the finest rounded ankles are most effectual shown by wearing a silk stocking without any clock." However, since these white gowns were so thin, the cold of winter required the adoption of cashmere shawls imported from India (left). English tailors fashioned the Spencer jacket (below right) and later in the period, the Redingote (below left). By 1810, all European skirts began to shorten and garments of silk and velvet regained prominence. People grew tired of the simplicity of the "chemise a la reine" and epidemics of influenza had taken many a life. By the early 1820s, the waistline had dropped considerably and women's fashion once again called for corsets and petticoats. Thus was the end of the Empire style. 
 sheer cotton gown (c. 1810-1815) The Victoria and Albert Museum The Victoria and Albert Museum |
 Regency Era gown
(Kent State Museum)
 Regency era Child's dress (Kent State Museum) |
Effects
on Children's Clothing: In both France and England, children were treated and expected to behave as young adults. Thus, fashions for children mimicked that of adults.Dresses for little girls and young adolescents were cut shorter and included pantalets under their shortened gowns. Up to age five, young boys were dressed in gowns and trousers (the male equivalent of pantalets). From age six to eleven, boys wore loose shirts buttoned to high-waisted, ankle length trousers. After age 12, boys were dressed much the same as men- shirts, trousers, jackets, and vests. |
| Etiquette
of the period: Impeccable manners and spotless reputations were the order of the day during the Regency Era. Whether acknowledging someone while crossing the street or making introductions at a ball or country dance, specific behavior was dictated for each situation. But the rules and codes of behavior for men and women were different. Below are just a few examples. Etiquette for Women If unmarried and under the age of thirty, a woman was never seen accompanying a man without the presence of a chaperone. A lady also never called upon a gentleman. From the book entitled Regency Etiquette: The Mirror of Graces dating to 1811, "...at no time ought she (meaning a lady) volunteer shaking hands with a male acquaintance..." Etiquette for Men Gentleman were free to travel as they pleased and call upon young ladies of the house. While ascending a flight of stairs, a gentleman would precede a woman; While descending a flight of stairs, a gentleman would follow her. This allowed for a ladies ankles to always be hidden from a gentleman's eye. Other musing from the book, Regency Etiquette: The Mirror of Graces: "...your dress should correspond with the station you hold in society." "..the occasional use of rouge may be tolerated- only tolerated." and, of course, "Excess is always bad." |