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 Susan Jarrett, M.Ed
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Susan Jarrett, M.Ed
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Whether you make your own corset
or choose to purchase one, "flossing" is a beautiful way to add your
own personal touch to this garment. "Flossing" is a term used to
describe a hand embroidery technique in which heavy floss
(traditionally silk or cotton) is top stitched over corset channels to
hold corset boning in place. After looking at over 75 extant American and European corsets dating from 1790- 1890, I primarily see flossing applied to corsets after 1870. As steel boning began to replace baleen (commonly referred to as whalebone) in corsetry, the need for flossing emerged. Essentially, flossing secured the steel boning inside the corset channel and kept it from slipping or twisting when the corset was worn. Flossing was most often applied at both the top and bottom of the boning channels.  In earlier corsets, I see examples of decorative embroidery techniques applied to corsets, but not necessarily flossing. I speculate this is because prior to the 1870s, the primary stiffening agent for corsets was baleen which did not require flossing. |
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There is no
right or wrong way to floss your corset. If you are using synthetic
poly boning in your corset, flossing serves primarily as a decorative
touch. If you are using steel (especially spiral steel) boning in your
corset, it is more important to floss your corset around (and even
through) the boning to secure it in place. There are some lovely hand
embroidery technique books out there.
Embroidery is an age old art form and one can assume that any of the
techniques in these modern books can be applied to historical garments.
However, be warned that embroidering your corset will take a great deal
of time. Depending upon the technique you use and the amount of floss
you intend to apply, it can take as many as 8-10 hours to floss your
corset! But once completed, your corset will no doubt be worth all the
time you invested in it!
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